Story time: I went through this exact rabbit hole when I was on a DX body and kept telling myself “I’ll go FX someday”… and yeah, the mount alphabet soup is REAL. What finally clicked for me is separating *mount* from *coverage* from *autofocus*. If you stay in Nikon DSLR-land, F-mount is the big gatekeeper. FX vs DX just decides whether you’ll get vignetting on full-frame later. And AF-S/AF-P matters because some older bodies won’t drive AF-P well (or at all), and the really old AF/AF-D lenses need a body with a screw-drive motor. I bought a used Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 50mm f/1.8G for like $160-ish and it’s been stupid-good value. On DX it’s basically a “portrait-ish” lens (tight indoor family shots, nice subject separation). When I later borrowed a friend’s FX body, it just worked the same way and suddenly felt like the classic normal lens again. No “DX crop only” regrets. Downside: no zoom, so travel can be a little footwork-heavy. But for $150–$300 and max compatibility, that lens felt like the least risky money I’ve spent on Nikon glass. anyway… good luck, cheers

For your situation, I’d grab a full-frame (FX) F-mount zoom: Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 24-85mm f/3.5-4.5G ED VR. In my experience it’s the best “one lens” compromise in your budget used. On your DX body it’s a nice general-purpose 36-128mm-ish range (great for family/portraits), and if you jump to FX later it becomes a legit travel walkaround. Also it’s AF-S so autofocus works on basically all Nikon DSLRs (even the ones without an in-body AF motor), and VR helps a ton for everyday stuff. Just be careful with AF-D lenses (cheap, but need a focus motor in the body) and DX-only lenses (they’ll vignette on full-frame). This one avoids that. good luck!

Just catching up on this thread. Honestly, im a bit disappointed that no one mentioned the mechanical pitfalls of the older D series glass, especially if youre thinking about the future.

• Unfortunately, I learned the hard way that trying to save money on older screw-drive lenses is a total trap. I spent way too many nights trying to DIY calibrate the back-focusing issues on my old body and it was never quite sharp. Its a huge time sink if the lens and body dont talk perfectly.
• Be really careful with the future-proofing plan. If you eventually move to a Nikon Z mirrorless, those older AF and AF-D lenses basically become manual-only. The adapters dont have motors for them, which is a massive letdown when you realize your investment is suddenly half-broken.
• Also, had some issues where the newer AF-P motors just wouldnt wake up on my older DSLR despite the mount physically fitting. Tbh, checking firmware compatibility tables is more important than the mount itself. Just dont want you getting stuck with a paperweight!

Ive been thinking about your gear hunt and honestly Im so stoked for you! Finding that one lens that survives body upgrades is basically the dream. Before I give my final vote tho, which specific camera are you using right now? Just wanna make sure the autofocus compatibility is 100 percent solid for you! If you want long-term keepers, these two are amazing:

• Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 50mm f/1.8G: This is an absolute legend for the price! Its super light and the bokeh is fantastic for portraits on your DX body. When you move to full-frame, it becomes the perfect nifty fifty standard lens. I still use mine all the time!
• Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 35mm f/1.8G ED: Just double check its the ED version! This one is full-frame compatible unlike the cheaper DX version. Its great for travel because its a bit wider, so you can actually fit the whole family in the shot without backing into a wall. Both are AF-S so theyll work on basically any Nikon ever made. Seriously, these lenses are such a good investment!

Ok so honestly, everyone usually defaults to Nikkor lenses because of the name, but if u want the most bang for ur buck, you *really* gotta look at the third-party market right now. Tbh, the used prices for older Sigma and Tamron glass are crazy low compared to Nikon equivalents. For that $150-$300 range, you could probably find something like the Tamron SP 35mm f/1.8 Di VC USD. It’s a full-frame lens, so it’ll work on ur DX body now (around a 50mm equivalent) and it’s basically ready for FX whenever u make the jump. Plus, it has vibration compensation (VC) which is a huge plus for travel and low-light family shots. Idk if the firmware on some older copies plays nice with the FTZ adapter if u eventually go mirrorless (some might need an update), so u might want to double check that, but for F-mount DSLRs, those third-party primes are such a steal. Sigma’s 'Art' series is great too but usually pushes the budget. Basically, dont limit urself to just Nikon-branded stuff if u want to maximize that budget.

Just saw this thread. Tbh, to give a pro recommendation, which specific body are you using right now? It matters for AF-P compatibility and whether you'll need to do some DIY AF micro-adjustments to get the focus tack-sharp on your specific sensor. If you want a lens that survives multiple bodies, you gotta think about the "self-service" factor and industry standards:
* Grab something with a solid rubber weather seal at the mount—it saves you from constant DIY sensor cleanings or expensive professional service down the road.
* Stick to modern "G" or "E" type glass, like the Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 50mm f/1.8G. It's a tank, easy to maintain, and is fully compatible with the Nikon FTZ II Mount Adapter if you eventually jump to a Z-mount mirrorless body. Imo, the DIY enthusiast move is finding glass that doesn't require a trip to a service center just to play nice with a newer body. Just make sure you check the rear element for any signs of fungus before buying used—that's one thing you definitely can't DIY away easily.

Same setup here, love it