TL;DR: Grab the Tamron 28-200mm f/2.8-5.6 Di III RXD Sony E-mount. It covers everything from wide architecture to portraits with one twist of the wrist and fits your budget perfectly. In my experience, Japan is all about versatility. I remember lugging three prime lenses through Kyoto years ago and missing shots because I was busy fumbling with rear caps and bags. Never again. Those numbers like 24-70 or 28-200 basically tell you the field of view. Lower numbers (28mm) are wide for those massive skyscrapers in Shinjuku, while higher numbers (200mm) zoom in tight on distant details or faces. The Tamron 28-200mm f/2.8-5.6 Di III RXD Sony E-mount is basically a technical marvel for the price. Most all-in-one zooms are dark and blurry, but this one starts at f/2.8. That f number is the aperture; lower means more light and blurrier backgrounds for portraits. Over the years, Ive found that having that f/2.8 at the wide end is a lifesaver for indoor temples where flash isnt allowed. Its sharp enough to outresolve most sensors in its class. You get the wide 28mm for the streets and the 200mm reach to capture the peak of Mt. Fuji from a distance. Just set the camera to Auto ISO and enjoy the trip without gear stress... its honestly the only lens you need for a first big trip.

Re: Saw your post and honestly I am so...

• I totally get why people suggest that superzoom, but after testing dozens of E-mount setups over the years, I have to disagree slightly. Tokyo architecture really demands that extra width at the 24mm end, and variable apertures can be a real headache once the sun goes down in the city. In my experience, you are much better off looking at the Sony FE 24-105mm f/4 G OSS. You can usually find a clean used copy for right around $700. Here is why the specs actually matter for your trip:
• 24mm vs 28mm: That extra width is essential for cramped streets. You wont have to back into traffic to get a whole building in the frame.
• Constant f/4: Your exposure doesnt change as you zoom. This is huge for consistency when shooting people.
• OSS: Built-in stabilization helps a ton when youre tired and your hands get shaky... Its a pro-grade lens that covers about 90% of what travelers need. Let me know if you need help with the autofocus settings too!

Regarding what #6 said about "Actually, I think it really depends on whether..."

• I would suggest being very cautious before you commit your budget. The technical specifications of your camera sensor will dictate the effective field of view, and you might want to consider how that affects your composition in crowded streets.
• Make sure to verify the weather sealing ratings to prevent moisture ingress.
• I would suggest checking the weight and balance for long-term ergonomics.
• Be careful with older electronic mounts that might lack modern firmware support. Just go with Sigma or any of the Tamron zoom lenses for the E-mount system. Those manufacturers have really nailed the performance-to-weight ratio recently. You basically cant go wrong with their modern glass, tho I would suggest looking for something with a constant aperture if you can find one in your price range. It makes a massive difference for long-term ownership as your skills develop.

No way, I literally just dealt with this yesterday. Small world.

Saw your post and honestly I am so stoked for you!! Japan is a total dream for photographers and youll love the vibe in Tokyo! Understanding those focal length numbers is actually pretty straightforward once you get the physics down. Basically, the smaller number like 24 or 28 tells you how wide the lens sees. This is what you want for those massive skyscrapers and tight streets. The larger number like 70 or 200 is your magnification or zoom power. To really nail down the technical specs thatll work for your specific setup, I just need to clarify a few things first:

• What exact camera body are you using? The sensor size like Full Frame vs APS-C totally changes how these lenses perform in terms of field of view.
• Do you think you will be doing a lot of nighttime street photography or shooting inside dimly lit temples? Knowing this is huge because aperture is the other half of the equation. Lenses with a constant f-stop are amazing for low light but usually have less zoom range, while those big zoom ranges often have variable apertures that struggle when the sun goes down. I love looking at the resolution data and distortion patterns for these things, so just let me know your camera model and we can find something fantastic that stays under that 700 dollar limit! You are gonna get some incredible shots!!

Wow ok that changes things. Gonna have to rethink my approach now.

Weather sealing is basically the most important spec for a travel lens imo because you dont want the electronics failing if you get caught in a sudden Tokyo downpour. If the seals arent rated for high humidity you might get internal fogging which is a total nightmare to clear out. Reliability is everything when you only have one chance at a shot... Reminds me of when I was checking the reliability ratings for the transit cards like Suica and Pasmo before my last flight. Did you know they had a massive chip shortage for those physical cards for a while? I had to use the digital version on my phone which was actually kind of a pain because my battery was always at like 5 percent from taking photos all day. I ended up spending way too much time in those massive electronics stores in Akihabara just looking at the high-end massage chairs instead of the actual camera gear. Those chairs are honestly dangerous once you sit down you never want to get up and the staff just lets you hang out there forever. Anyway lol sorry kinda went off topic there.

Actually, I think it really depends on whether your camera is a full frame or one of the smaller APS-C models. Not sure which one you grabbed but that is gonna dictate what you can get for 700 bucks. I've been super satisfied with using a used all-in-one zoom for my travels. I bought mine second-hand and honestly it's been great. Someone told me once that for Japan you want to be as light as possible because of all the walking. IIRC there are a few options in the 18-135mm range if you have the smaller sensor, and those usually fit your budget easily. I'm not 100 percent sure on the current market price tho. I usually just look for the best deals on used gear sites and do my own research on the condition. Having one lens that does it all has worked well for me and I haven't had any complaints.

Like someone mentioned, compatibility is the absolute first thing you need to check before dropping that much cash. It is so easy to buy a lens that physically fits but performs like garbage because the sensor size is wrong for the optics. Honestly, just double check if your body is full-frame or APS-C or you are gonna have a bad time.

• Check your sensor size first
• Avoid cheap knock-off adapters that ruin autofocus
• Dont ignore the weight since youll be walking for miles I have been satisfied with sticking to native mounts for my own gear just for the peace of mind. It just works well and I have had no complaints about reliability. Definitely keep an eye out for weather sealing too, because those surprise showers are no joke. Just take your time and do the research, no need to rush the purchase.