TL;DR: Grab the Tamron 28-200mm f/2.8-5.6 Di III RXD Sony E-mount. It covers everything from wide architecture to portraits with one twist of the wrist and fits your budget perfectly. In my experience, Japan is all about versatility. I remember lugging three prime lenses through Kyoto years ago and missing shots because I was busy fumbling with rear caps and bags. Never again. Those numbers like 24-70 or 28-200 basically tell you the field of view. Lower numbers (28mm) are wide for those massive skyscrapers in Shinjuku, while higher numbers (200mm) zoom in tight on distant details or faces. The Tamron 28-200mm f/2.8-5.6 Di III RXD Sony E-mount is basically a technical marvel for the price. Most all-in-one zooms are dark and blurry, but this one starts at f/2.8. That f number is the aperture; lower means more light and blurrier backgrounds for portraits. Over the years, Ive found that having that f/2.8 at the wide end is a lifesaver for indoor temples where flash isnt allowed. Its sharp enough to outresolve most sensors in its class. You get the wide 28mm for the streets and the 200mm reach to capture the peak of Mt. Fuji from a distance. Just set the camera to Auto ISO and enjoy the trip without gear stress... its honestly the only lens you need for a first big trip.

Re: Saw your post and honestly I am so...

• I totally get why people suggest that superzoom, but after testing dozens of E-mount setups over the years, I have to disagree slightly. Tokyo architecture really demands that extra width at the 24mm end, and variable apertures can be a real headache once the sun goes down in the city. In my experience, you are much better off looking at the Sony FE 24-105mm f/4 G OSS. You can usually find a clean used copy for right around $700. Here is why the specs actually matter for your trip:
• 24mm vs 28mm: That extra width is essential for cramped streets. You wont have to back into traffic to get a whole building in the frame.
• Constant f/4: Your exposure doesnt change as you zoom. This is huge for consistency when shooting people.
• OSS: Built-in stabilization helps a ton when youre tired and your hands get shaky... Its a pro-grade lens that covers about 90% of what travelers need. Let me know if you need help with the autofocus settings too!

Saw your post and honestly I am so stoked for you!! Japan is a total dream for photographers and youll love the vibe in Tokyo! Understanding those focal length numbers is actually pretty straightforward once you get the physics down. Basically, the smaller number like 24 or 28 tells you how wide the lens sees. This is what you want for those massive skyscrapers and tight streets. The larger number like 70 or 200 is your magnification or zoom power. To really nail down the technical specs thatll work for your specific setup, I just need to clarify a few things first:

• What exact camera body are you using? The sensor size like Full Frame vs APS-C totally changes how these lenses perform in terms of field of view.
• Do you think you will be doing a lot of nighttime street photography or shooting inside dimly lit temples? Knowing this is huge because aperture is the other half of the equation. Lenses with a constant f-stop are amazing for low light but usually have less zoom range, while those big zoom ranges often have variable apertures that struggle when the sun goes down. I love looking at the resolution data and distortion patterns for these things, so just let me know your camera model and we can find something fantastic that stays under that 700 dollar limit! You are gonna get some incredible shots!!