To add to the point above: Charles is spot on about the quality drop-off with cheap glass. If you check the transmission charts for those budget bundles, they often have massive spikes in flare and ghosting because the coatings are basically non-existent. IIRC, the Hoya Fusion Antistatic UV 55mm is a solid middle ground for this lens. It boasts something like 99.8% light transmission which is pretty elite for the price point. I havent seen the raw lab data for the newer Kenko Realpro UV 55mm yet, but I think they use a similar hardened glass tech that resists smudges and water. A few specs to look for:

• Coating layers: More layers usually mean fewer reflections.
• Glass source: Schott B270 or similar high-grade optical glass is the standard for clarity.
• Frame material: Hardened aluminum or brass prevents the filter from getting stuck on the lens threads. Not sure if the super expensive Sigma WR Ceramic Protector 55mm is overkill for the kit lens, but its arguably the toughest glass out there if youre clumsy like me. Stick to the known brands and you wont lose that Sony sharpness.

Been shooting with Sony for years and honestly, choosing filters can be a total headache with all the junk out there! If you're worried about scratches, get the Marumi 55mm EXUS Lens Protect. This thing has a super slick anti-static coating that makes cleaning fingerprints a total breeze. Seriously, I've had mud wipe right off without leaving a streak. High-end coatings really make a massive difference for everyday use because they keep the glass pristine without affecting your light transmission. For that polarizer, you gotta check out the Marumi 55mm Super DHG Circular PL. It's incredible for removing glare from leaves or water. Colors look so much more saturated without looking fake. Plus, the ring movement is smooth as butter, which is a big deal when you're trying to fine-tune the effect in the field. Now, if you want those dreamy long exposure shots, the Haida NanoPro 55mm MC ND3.0 10-Stop is a total game changer. The glass is super neutral, so you wont get that ugly purple or brown tint you see on cheaper ND filters. It's honestly one of my favorite pieces of kit in my bag for those smooth waterfall shots. TL;DR: Grab the Marumi EXUS for daily protection and the Haida NanoPro for long exposures. Theyre pro-grade gear without the insane price tags! Let me know if you need any more tips on setting them up!

Yep, this is the way

> Should I get UV, polarizer, or ND filters? There are so many brands and options, not sure where to start. I would suggest being very cautious with the cheap filter bundles you see on sites like Amazon. It might be tempting to get a whole set for twenty bucks, but low-quality glass will noticeably soften your images and cause issues with light flaring. For a kit lens like the 28-70mm, you really dont need to spend hundreds, but you should still avoid the absolute bottom-tier stuff. Make sure to watch out for stacking filters too. If you put a circular polarizer on top of a UV filter, you are almost guaranteed to see dark corners or vignetting when you are shooting at the wider 28mm end. Its usually much better to just swap them out as needed rather than keeping two layers of glass on there. If you decide on an ND filter for video or long exposures, be careful with the cheaper variable versions. They often create a weird X-pattern across the image that can completely ruin a shot. Sometimes its better to just buy one decent fixed ND filter for the specific lighting you deal with most often.

Finally someone says it. Ive been thinking this for a while but wasnt sure.

There are a few filter options to consider depending on your needs:

1. UV Filter:

   • Primarily used for lens protection against scratches, dust, and minor impacts
   • Has minimal effect on image quality in most scenarios
   • Good to keep on the lens at all times for peace of mind
   • Recommendations: B+W XS-Pro UV MRC-Nano, Hoya HD3 UV, or Tiffen UV Protector

2. Circular Polarizer (CPL):

   • Reduces reflections and glare from non-metallic surfaces like water, glass, and foliage
   • Enhances color saturation and contrast, especially in blue skies
   • Useful for landscape and outdoor photography
   • Recommendations: B+W XS-Pro Kaesemann Circular Polarizer MRC Nano, Hoya HD3 Circular Polarizer, or Breakthrough Photography X4 CPL

3. Neutral Density (ND) Filters:

   • Reduces the amount of light entering the lens without affecting color
   • Allows slower shutter speeds or wider apertures in bright conditions
   • Useful for long exposure effects like blurring water or clouds
   • ND filters come in various strengths (ND2, ND4, ND8, etc.)
   • For a versatile option, consider a variable ND filter that covers a range of stops
   • Recommendations: Tiffen Variable ND, B+W XS-Pro Digital ND Vario MRC-Nano, or PolarPro Peter McKinnon Variable ND

In general, stick with reputable filter brands like B+W, Hoya, Tiffen, Breakthrough Photography, or PolarPro. They offer high-quality optical glass and coatings to minimize image quality loss.

I'd suggest starting with a basic UV filter for protection, and then adding a CPL or ND filter as needed for your specific photography interests. Remember to avoid stacking too many filters to prevent vignetting and reduced image quality.

Sony FE 28-70mm f/3.5-5.6 OSS lens uses 55mm diameter filters .

Here are the three most common filter types for this lens:

• UV Filter: A clear filter that provides basic protection for the front element against dust, scratches, and moisture. It's often kept on the lens at all times as a sacrificial layer.

• CPL Filter (Circular Polarizer): Reduces glare and reflections from non-metallic surfaces like water or glass. It also enhances color saturation, making skies appear a deeper blue.

• ND Filter (Neutral Density): Acts like sunglasses for your lens. It reduces the amount of light entering, allowing for wider apertures in bright conditions or slower shutter speeds for creative blur effects .

When shopping, simply look for filters marked 55mm. It is generally recommended to avoid very cheap filters, as poor-quality glass can degrade image sharpness.