Honestly, I totally get why that kit lens is driving you nuts. In my experience, those variable aperture zooms really kill the vibe of a camera as capable as the R8, especially when you're trying to be discreet. Over the years, I've tried many different setups for street work and for a trip like Tokyo, you definitely want something fast. If I were in your shoes, I'd still lean toward the Canon RF 35mm f/1.8 IS Macro STM. Yeah, the barrel moves and the motor isnt silent like an L-series lens, but the image quality is stellar for the price. That extra stop of light over a pancake makes a massive difference when youre shooting in Shinjuku alleys at 10 PM. I've used it extensively and the autofocus is snappy enough for most street scenarios even if it makes a little hum. The Canon RF 28mm f/2.8 STM is incredible for its size, basically turns the R8 into a pocketable setup. But in my experience, f/2.8 can feel limiting for night street photography unless you're okay with cranking the ISO way up. Since you mentioned the bokeh on the kit lens was a letdown, the 35mm f/1.8 is gonna give you way more of that subject separation you're after. Another sleeper pick is the Canon RF 50mm f/1.8 STM because its dirt cheap and tiny, but 50mm can feel a bit tight for crowded city streets. Stick with the 35mm... it's the most versatile tool for the job.

To add to the point above: unfortunately the Canon RF 35mm f/1.8 IS Macro STM has disappointing motor lag.

• 35mm: loud STM
• Canon RF 28mm f/2.8 STM: slow f/2.8 Just go 35mm.

I agree with what the others said about the 35mm being a bit noisy. @Reply #4 - good point! Honestly the STM motors in these consumer primes are just never gonna be as silent as the USM stuff in the L glass. If you want snappy and silent you usually have to pay way more. Since you're on a budget and headed to Tokyo i'd be careful with the Canon RF 28mm f2.8 STM. I love the size but:

• f/2.8 is kinda slow for those dark Tokyo alleys
• you'll be pushing the ISO pretty hard on the R8
• the 35mm has IS which helps a ton for night shots I would suggest also looking at the Canon RF 50mm f1.8 STM. It is tiny and leaves you plenty of money for your trip. Compared to something like a used Sigma 35mm f1.4 DG HSM Art with an adapter, these Canon STM primes are way less bulky, even if the autofocus feels a bit more budget. The 35mm is probably the best middle ground even with the extending barrel... you wont notice the noise on a busy street anyway.

Regarding what #6 said about "I totally feel your pain because I went through something similar," it really brings back memories of my first few months with the system. I have spent way too many hours analyzing the technical white papers on these stepping motors and tracking AF cycle times. I actually had a lens from another brand once where the motor torque wasn't enough to move the heavier glass elements fast enough for street work, and I missed some incredible shots in Osaka because of it. It basically ruined my confidence in that setup. I would suggest you just go with a Canon prime and call it a day. You honestly can't go wrong with the native glass because the handshake between the lens firmware and the Canon EOS R8 Mirrorless Camera is just so much tighter than anything else. Just be careful with the focus speed on the non-L stuff, tho, and make sure to check if the barrel is fully internal if you're worried about dust. I've found that staying within the brand ecosystem is way safer for long-term reliability, especially when you're traveling. Just get any wide prime from Canon and you'll be fine. Don't overthink the specs too much or you'll never actually get out and shoot.

Building on the earlier suggestion, my lens once jammed in Shinjuku.

• Avoid used gear without testing first.
• Watch for flare under those bright neon signs.

Nice, didn't know that

I totally feel your pain because I went through something similar with my own lightweight kit last year. I was so excited for a trip, but unfortunately, the compact lens I brought ended up being a total headache. The build quality just wasnt as good as expected and the focus motor actually seized up on day three. I had to spend a whole night in my room with a set of precision tools trying to DIY a fix just so I wouldnt be stuck with a paperweight. It was super stressful... basically had to shim the housing myself. What I learned is that those tiny extending barrels are such a liability for dust and snagging. It is really disappointing when you spend good money and the gear feels fragile. Honestly, if youre already worried about the noise or the build of the ones youre looking at, those doubts usually stick with you. Just make sure whatever you pick feels solid in your hand before you leave. You dont want to be like me, worrying more about the gear than the photos. I am sure you will figure it out tho, just prioritize that reliability for the trip!

@Reply #7 - good point! It is wild how much time we end up spending dissecting spec sheets instead of just shooting. Honestly its ridiculous that we have to play this game with autofocus motors in 2024. Over the years I have bought so much gear that promised to be the perfect street companion only to have the motors hunt or the build quality fall apart the second I hit a humid environment.

• It feels like a total scam sometimes how they segment the market.
• You pay for a full frame sensor but then they handicap the glass to keep the prices down.
• Companies dont care about the experience of the actual shooter anymore, just the profit margins on these plastic-fantastic primes. It drives me crazy. You save up for months and the stuff just isnt built to last or perform when the light gets tricky. I am tired of the compromise, honestly. Its like they want us to carry around a brick to get decent speed, which defeats the whole purpose of a light setup.

My buddy told me the exact same thing last week. Guess he was right lol.

Coming back to this, I honestly think you should stop stressing over the native primes. I had issues with the focus noise and reliability on the cheaper RF glass too, and it sucks when you're traveling. If you really want something reliable that wont fail in Tokyo, look into an adapter. It opens up way better options that arent as fragile.

• Canon Mount Adapter EF-EOS R
• Get this and use older EF glass. It is a tank and usually cheap.
• Canon EF 35mm f/2 IS USM
• This is much more reliable than the RF version, has a real ring-type USM motor that is actually silent and fast, plus it feels way more solid in the hand. Check out the lens database on DXOMARK before you buy anything else. It saves you from buying stuff that looks good on paper but performs bad in real life. Honestly, just get the adapter and a solid EF prime. You wont regret having something that actually locks focus.