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Which prime lens is best for portraits on a Leica SL2?

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I'm honestly freaking out because I have a big portrait session in Chicago in three weeks and I still haven't picked a dedicated prime for my SL2. Everyone says the 90mm APO is the king but then others swear by the 50mm Summilux for that creamy look and now I’m just lost because the 90mm seems almost too clinical in some samples and i dont want it to look like a school photo. I need to make a move fast.

  • Budget is strictly under $4500
  • Must be native L-mount
  • Needs to handle low light for a dim studio

Should I just go with the 50 or is the 75mm a better middle ground? I cant decide...


7 Answers
12

Omg dont stress! I used the Leica Summilux-SL 50mm f/1.4 ASPH for a moody shoot in a dim studio last year and it was incredible! The 90mm is cool but that 50mm is pure magic.

  • f/1.4 is a lifesaver in low light
  • bokeh is just... wow
  • way more versatile than a 90mm I honestly think its the way to go for that cinematic vibe you want!


12

I am very happy with the Leica APO-Summicron-SL 75mm f/2 ASPH and think its the perfect middle ground you are looking for. Technically, the apochromatic correction is superior to almost anything else in the L-mount lineup, meaning you wont see any color fringing even in high-contrast studio shots. It works well for portraits because the 75mm focal length is much more intimate than a 90mm without the distortion you sometimes get with a 50mm. No complaints about the f/2 aperture either... the light transmission is excellent for dim rooms. Quick tip: since your budget is $4500, you might need to look for a clean used copy since they retail a bit higher, but its worth the effort for the glass quality. It handles low light beautifully and the rendering is much less sterile than the 90mm.


3

> now I’m just lost because the 90mm seems almost too clinical in some samples I totally hear you on the clinical look. In my experience, those super-corrected lenses can sometimes feel a bit soul-less for portraits. Before I weigh in tho, I need to know more about the Chicago session. Are you gonna be in a cramped rental studio or a larger space? Years ago, I made the mistake of blowing my entire budget on a lens everyone called the king of portraits. I took it to a dim indoor shoot and realized I literally didnt have enough room to back up far enough to frame the subjects properly. I felt like a total amateur struggling with the gear instead of focusing on the model. I learned the hard way that technical perfection doesnt mean much if the focal length makes your life difficult in the actual room. Are you doing mostly headshots or full-body?


3

Huh interesting. I had no idea. The more you know I guess 🤷


3

100% agree


2

I have been shooting with the SL system since it launched and honestly, sometimes we overthink the glass when the character actually comes from the lighting and your connection with the subject. If you are worried about that clinical look but need reliability in a dim studio, just go with Sigma. I have tried many lenses over the years and their fast primes are absolute workhorses for the L-mount.

  • Sigma glass is generally more forgiving than the APO stuff.
  • You save enough money to build a killer DIY lighting setup.
  • The rendering is modern but still has plenty of soul for portraits. Seriously, you cant go wrong with a fast Sigma. Use the extra three grand you save to buy some V-flats or a high-end strobe kit. In my experience, a cheap piece of foam core used as a reflector does more for a portrait than the tiny bit of extra sharpness you get from a lens that costs four times as much...


2

Been shooting with the SL system for a long time now and honestly, specs on paper only tell half the story. I remember getting a heavy fast prime years ago because the MTF charts were basically a straight line at the top. Problem was, after four hours of handheld shooting, the weight distribution made my wrist go numb and I started missing focus because I was shaking. I learned that balance and internal focus speed actually matter more for a high-pressure session than ultimate sharpness. A few technical things I always look at now:

  • Focus breathing during micro-adjustments
  • Total weight when paired with the SL2 body
  • Linear vs non-linear focus ring response I need to know one thing tho before giving a final pick. How much space do you actually have in that Chicago studio? If you are backed against a wall, the focal length choice changes everything regardless of the bokeh quality.


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